Great Lips are always in fashion. More pout or better hydration? You choose…

 

Here is a question that I am often asked.

‘If a client came in to see me and asked me to inject them so they would have huge, outrageous lips, would I do the treatment?’

My answer? Well, it depends. I am normally prepared to be more adventurous with clients whom I know really well, and have been treating for some time. If it was a person whom I had never met before, I would spend a long time speaking to them to understand their motivation. One of the key things that I have learned in my 5 years of practicing Cosmetic Injectable treatments is that everyone has a different idea of beauty. It is true that the majority of us agree that certain looks are ‘overdone’ or that some people can look a ‘bit weird’.  And I have a very clear idea of how I like to look, and it certainly veers towards being very natural. However, I also think that each of us has the right to step outside of the usual boundaries and explore more extreme ideals. I also feel that we each have the right to do this whilst being free of judgment from those who may not share the same ideals.

Lips are a great example of how the beauty ideal can really vary. It is exciting that in this day and age, if we are not totally happy with the lips we were born with, or just want to wear a different look for a while, we can do it! Similarly, if older people feel that they have lost a bit of their lip lustre,  they can have a simple treatment to restore that.

I recently presented at two London conferences. One was Professional Beauty, held at London Excel earlier this month. The second was held at the Royal College of Physicians, and was the official UK launch of two brand new, lip specific fillers from Restylane.

1. Restylane Lip Volume – for people who desire increased volume, lip plumpness and more pout!

2. Restylane Lip Refresh- for people who want to restore hydro-balance and improve lip texture (with no plumping or volume!)

 

Full, smooth, hydrated lips have always been considered an attractive feature of the face.  But not everyone wants BIG lips, and different facial shapes and sizes mean that lips need to be in proportion. This is why every client I see has a very individual request for lip treatment.  In the past (and mainly before my time), lip enhancements meant one thing – inflated volume! I am sure we have all seen examples of this type of effect. Interestingly, this has come back into fashion in certain social groups such as young women in Essex (anyone who is a TOWIE fan will know what I mean). 

 

It is mainly females aged 18-30 who like this look, and I think it is changing the way we (public) perceive lips that have been ‘done’. As a Practitioner, it has also made me more open to the requests of my clients. While it is always my role to advise based on my knowledge of facial aesthetics, anatomical proportions and medical safety, I find that I can at times, be more influenced by my client’s wishes. Further answering the question posed above!

The past few years have seen the emergence of a new trend in lip treatments – increased hydration. I use products such as Restylane Vital & Vital Light, or Juvederm Hydrate to achieve this. These are fillers which are specially designed to increase hydration, but have minimal (or no) lifting capacity. The new Restylane Lip Refresh has the added bonus that it can improve the structure of the lip without increasing the size of the lip. So, if you have always wanted your lips to look a bit juicier, or a bit more like they were 10 years ago, try a hydrating treatment.

Don’t worry. It is impossible to give you a big pout with these products! Honestly.

 

WELL-BEING

 

I am constantly working on becoming a truly spiritual being.  I’m not really sure exactly what that means, but I believe that it is important to have an inner calm and sense of balance. I am in a profession that deals with external aesthetics. Time and time again however, I find that the people who radiate beauty the most, are the ones who have immense inner beauty as well.

If I could spend my life in an ashram or take time out for a year-long meditation retreat, I am sure I would be a step closer. In the meantime, whilst living in a bustling city like London, working long hours, keeping up with all the necessary (and some not so) social events, and trying to look after my physical wellbeing…I rely on several resources to aid my spiritual pursuits.

Here, I’d like to share three of my favorite websites. If this is something that resonates with you, check them out.

www.thedailylove.com

www.thewelldaily.com

www.femininepower.com

 

Cosmetic Surgery and Injectable treatments….How safe are YOU?

Following all of the recent media focus involving Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Injectable treatments, the topic of this blog had to be one thing…safety!

Early in the New Year, it was impossible to avoid hearing about the PIP breast implant situation. What was that all about? Well, the silicon used in the manufacture of the implants from the French company PIP, was found to be non-medical grade. That means that it was not indicated for use in the human body. It was in fact, intended for making mattresses and other industrial products.  Whilst there is still no clear evidence that the PIP implants have caused or will caused any problems, it is understandable that over 40,000 UK women (and more throughout the rest of Europe) were left feeling very nervous about their implants.

There have been several meetings involving the UK Government and the Surgery providers (Surgeons and Hospital Groups) to decide what should be done for these women in the UK.  The problem is that several years ago, the MHRA (Medicines & Healthcare products Regulatory Agency) actually approved these implants for supply and use in the UK.  As a result, several of the Surgery providers are less willing to take full responsibility. Worryingly, the ongoing discussions seem to be about the financial consequences for the Surgeons/Clinics, rather than the safety implications of replacing the implants for those women who wish to do so.

My personal opinion?  I think that the Surgery groups (Surgeons) who used these implants need to be held fully accountable. It is their responsibility to look after their clients. They used implants that were significantly cheaper, and those fat profits that were earned, now need to be re-allocated to make amends. Harsh but true.

Facts and opinions aside, a few interesting issues have come to light to improve the safety of people undergoing Cosmetic Surgery.  Sir Bruce Keogh (Medical Director, NHS) will soon lead a review to look more closely at this. I will keep you informed.

Soon after the PIP reports, media attention also turned to the use of injectable permanent (unlicensed) dermal fillers. Now this issue is much closer but in no way relevant to me and my daily practice.

The first thing that I want to say is that I have NEVER used any form of permanent filler. If you are or were a client at Renew Medica or Destination Skin (now merged as one company), you can be assured that permanent fillers were NEVER used at any of the clinics. 95% of the the fillers used are made from Hyaluronic Acid (Restylane, Juvederm and Teosyal) and until it was discontinued in 2010, Collagen (Evolence) fillers were also used. All of these dermal fillers are biological materials and 100% biocompatible. They are referred to as ‘semi-permanent’ because they are manufactured to last 6-12 months.

The ‘permanent’ fillers that were highlighted in last month’s media reports are called Bio-Alcamid. These should only be used by Plastic Surgeons and extremely experienced Aesthetic Practitioners (Doctors, Dentists). The main indication is for repairing defects and volume work. Whilst they can be used for lines and wrinkles, they are not the best product of choice. All properly trained and qualified practitioners are well aware of this, and therefore would not use it.

So that leads me on to this very important question. Who is a properly qualified and trained practitioner?

Let me tell you about Treatments You Can Trust (www.treamtentsyoucantrust.org.uk ) which is the only Government backed scheme for the regulation of Cosmetic Injectable treatments.

The register only allows the following professionals who are licensed by the Department of Health to administer Botox and Dermal Fillers:

*DOCTORS (registered with the General Medical Council; includes Dermatologists and Plastic Surgeons)

*DENTISTS (registered with the General Dental Council)

*INDEPENDENT NURSE PRESCRIBERS (registered with the Nursing and Midwifery Council and who have completed the Prescriber course)

All of the Practitioners and Clinics that are on the register have submitted detailed evidence that they comply with the rigorous set of Standards set by the IHAS (Independent Health Advisory Service), who are the progenitors of the TYCT scheme.  As such, they are subject to random inspections and form part of the ever growing group of responsible Clinics who really care about the delivering excellent, safe  Cosmetic  Injectable treatments to their clients.

Look for this logo on the front window or door of your chosen Aesthetic clinic.

 

If you don’t see it, ask them if they are registered with Treatments You Can Trust. If they say no, don’t wait around for excuses. Leave and check out www.treatmentsyoucantrust.org.uk to find a clinic where you will be in safe hands. Trust me!

 

WELLNESS

To me, beauty is a feeling as much as an aesthetic appearance. Knowing that I am taking good care of myself, whether that means keeping up my botox, or simply purchasing a gorgeous new lipstick, makes me feel beautiful.

This month, I am going to use this section of my blog to tell you about the InStyle Magazine Best Beauty Buys Awards.

I was on the judging panel again this year for the second time.

Although there are many of you that require products with a higher level of active ingredients (such as those I use in my clinic), there are lots of excellent products available from the cosmetic companies we all know so well. I voted for several of the winners including: Touche Eclat (YSL); Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler; Bare Minerals SPF15 Mineral Foundation; Batiste Dry Shampoo; L’Occitane Shea Butter Foot Cream; Hypnose Waterproof Mascara (Lancome); Tom Ford Lipstick and St. Tropez Gradual Tan.

It was great to see that Clarisonic won Best New Gadget. Told you it was amazing!

Also, pick up a copy and read my quote about ‘Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum’, a long-term favorite.

 

 

Happy New Year…beauty resolutions!

Welcome to my first blog of 2012!

I love a new year (I will touch on resolutions in a bit) because it represents a clean slate, a new time period and just a great opportunity to do things differently. I have had a great deal of feedback regarding my blog, mostly that people really do want to know what I think about everything aesthetic…and even other aspects of life in general. There is so much going on in the world of Aesthetics that I really need to post my blogs monthly. During the particularly interesting parts of the year, it may even be twice a month!

Let’s begin with New Year’s resolutions. I’m sure we have all resolved to make some important changes to various aspects of our lives. I am going to suggest two important ‘beauty’ resolutions for you to add to your list. They involve the beginning and end of your daily skin care regime. If you don’t have one, there is another resolution – come in to see me and let’s get you started!

1. Cleanse your skin effectively, which means owning and using your very own Clarisonic.

 

I have talked, Facebooked and Tweeted about Clarisonic during the past year. Just in case you are not aware of it, it is a sonic brush specially developed for the skin. It works pretty much exactly like an electric toothbrush, which also uses sonic technology. How do we know it really works? Good question, and exactly what I asked Dr. Rob Ackeridge (the developer) when he first visited from the USA last year. He showed me an impressive list of clinical studies (some published in American dermatology journals) to prove its clinical efficacy.

What you need to know is this:

*Make up removal is 6 times better using the Clarisonic brush (even without a cleanser). It only takes ONE minute, so it’s awesome for rushed mornings and late nights! And it is waterproof so it can be used in the shower.

*It is gentle enough to use on even the most sensitive skins…yes, really!

*Men will love it too. In a subjective trial, over 85% of men said that it gave them a better shave experience, and they liked that it was fast…ONE minute.

*the Clarisonic brush is twice as effective as manual cleaning for general dirt/oil removal. This is what we all need each day, no matter how good our skin may be.

*60% better absorption of your skin care products immediately after cleansing with Clarisonic. You should see a better result from your products (whatever you are using), and they may even last a bit longer, saving your precious money. Great!

 

2. Wear sunscreen (at least SPF 30) every day.

I grew up in Australia where there is plenty of sunshine all year round, and I wish that I had made this my resolution much, much earlier on. Whilst I have now managed to correct all the past sun damage (and my clinics can offer you lots of solutions for doing so), prevention is always best.  Not only that, but there is little point investing in good skin care, or beauty /medical aesthetic treatments, if you are not going to safeguard against the most potent assault on your skin…UV rays. Yes, even in the greyness of UK winter days, and especially if you are planning a ski trip!!

Here are the facts. UVB is what causes your skin to tan (already a sign that damage has occurred), and will cause the first signs of ageing such as dry, inelastic, wrinkled skin. To add to this insult, UVA penetrates more deeply and actually damages the DNA in your skin cells. This means an inability of the cell to repair, and at worst can lead to skin cancer.

Make sure that you are using a mineral (physical block) sunscreen which contains Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. This will act as a broad spectrum protection against all the UV rays. I really like the physical defense sunscreens from Image, OBAGI & Jan Marini.

 


Wellness

It is a common misperception that Aesthetics is only ‘skin deep’, and that our industry is predominantly concerned with pandering to the vanity of those trying to fight the inevitability of ageing!

Well, I guess it is true that most of my daily clinical work involves dealing with the ‘external’ appearance. In this new part of my blog ‘Wellness’, I hope to convey that there are many more layers to Aesthetics. I will cover lots of areas including nutrition, fitness, dental health, hair & beauty, relaxation and a favorite theme of mine being spiritual well-being. I am certainly not an expert in all of these areas, so I will be calling upon those who are, to bring you up to date and accurate information. I will kick this off in February.

Here’s to a happy, healthy, peaceful, exciting and beautifully aesthetic 2012.

Love and light.

Don’t forget your sunscreen…

 

A revolution in skin cleansing is upon us…

Everyone knows that my background is in Cosmetic Dentistry, and I consider myself mainly an expert in lower face rejuvenation using Botulinum toxins, dermal fillers and non-laser therapies. So, I do find it a little surprising that when I am asked to present at aesthetic conferences, it is usually some topic about skin!

Possibly, this is because I am the Clinical Director for Renew Medica, London’s largest group of Skin clinics. In this role, I have had the opportunity to develop my skin knowledge to an extremely advanced level. Yet even when I was making the transition from Dentistry to Aesthetics several years ago, I understood very quickly that great skin (as is the case with great teeth) is the foundation of looking good at any age.

People may think that they need a dermatologist to achieve even-toned, glowing, movie-star skin. Unless there is some underlying pathology (or disease of the skin), this is simply not the case. Many factors including the stresses of everyday life can cause imbalances in our normal skin function. Factors such as temperature and climate; hormonal changes; ageing and illness all affect the way our skin functions and looks. The correct advice, treatments and products can quickly and effectively turn things around. This formed the topic of the talk I gave at this year’s FACE conference, held at the Royal College of Physicians in London on the last (sunny & sizzling) weekend in June.

In actual fact, I was presenting to the UK/European industry a total revolution in skin cleansing. Our American counterparts, not surprisingly, have been enlightened for a couple of years. So what exactly am I talking about? CLARISONIC. It uses sonic technology in a skin brush. Think of a giant electric toothbrush, modified for the skin. It works in a very similar way, and has been intricately designed to perform superior cleansing without irritating or damaging the skin. It is not classed as a medical device but it has an impressive list of studies verifying its effectiveness. Thorough cleansing is the first step in any successful skin care routine. More than this, the cascading effects from the enhanced Clarisonic clean can beneficially alter the outcomes of all the treatments you can have in the clinic. Here we have the future of cleansing…Clarisonic. Try it.

As we move from the late summer into the coming colder months, our skin will need support in making the transition. Soon, my clinic will be full of clients who want to boost their skin after the summer excesses of too much sun, chlorinated pool water, lots of alcohol and the other effects of summer partying.

At the Cosmetic News Expo in London in May, I talked about the types of injectable skin boosters or hydrating treatments that I use in my clinic. These are very fluid types of HA (hyaluronic acid) which is the main ingredient found in most dermal fillers. HA is extremely water-binding and so that’s why these treatments add instant glow and plumpness to dry, photo damaged skin.

I like Restylane Vital and Juvederm Hydrate. These two brands are quite different in their characteristics and I choose which one to use depending on the specific needs of my client. They can be used alone or in combination with peels, light based therapies for pigmentation, microdermabrasion or microneedling (Dermaroller). Actually, everyone can benefit from injectable hydration treatments, as they also boost collagen production leading to firmer skin.

Even if you like your fine lines and wrinkles, and don’t mind a few signs of ageing, keep your skin hydrated and even-toned, and you are sure to look good. At any time of the year…

Thank goodness for this ‘shallow’ industry….

Recently, at two separate conferences, I attended two of the most fascinating presentations in quite a while. In the heavenly setting of Monaco, the Aesthetic Medicine World Congress took place in March. There I listened to a talk by Dr. Michele Verschoor, Medical Director for L’Oreal. Her talk mainly focused on the differences between male and female skin characteristics, the main point being that men need to use products that as less oil-based as they produce more sebum in their skin. Ok, so that will definitely help me manage my male clients so that they get better results.

That wasn’t the most interesting thing however! There was a survey to find out the average age when men and women become aware of ageing, or changes in their physical appearance. Women become aware of ‘ageing’ at a mean age of 29 years, whilst men don’t really begin to worry until 49 years.   A staggering difference!

Another recent survey asking men and women to rate the criteria important in a choosing a partner was  also rather enlightening. As has been the case historically, for men, facial attractiveness in a woman is still the most important factor, followed closely by a good body. Personality, status/job were of lesser importance. In the past, women placed the man’s status/job as the most important factor in considering him as a sexual partner.  A recent re- survey of young women (20-30 years) shows that this has definitely changed. Women now also rate facial attractiveness and a fit body shape as the number one factor in choosing a man. His job/status and other personality traits are still important but come in third.

So, what do we make of all this? Well, in my practice I am certainly seeing more men every week and have often wondered  exactly what the driving force has been? I think there are lots of reasons why men also feel the ‘pressure’ to look good (note: good rather than young), not least the fact that they are likely becoming aware of the expectations, as shown above, of women today! Fascinating.

Katie Piper is the beautiful, 27 year old former model and TV presenter who tragically suffered an acid- attack which burnt most of her face, neck and parts of her arms three years ago.  She was put in the care of an exceptional reconstructive medical team, led by the charismatic surgeon Mr. Jawad. Her treatment plan of course, included total replacement of her skin, as well as some reconstructive surgery to her nose, one eye, mouth and throat damaged by the severity of the acid burns.

Katie and Mr. Jawad addressed us in London, at a Restylane conference in early April. Her ongoing treatment has recently turned to our Aesthetic industry, as Katie and her medical team sought ways to further improve the quality and appearance of her extensive facial skin grafts.  Restylane (a hyaluronic acid dermal filler) was used to support the dermal structure of Katie’s skin grafts. The result, as expressed by Katie herself, was more elastic, hydrated, plumper skin.

Of course, those of us who work with Restylane and other hyaluronic acid dermal fillers daily, already know of these benefits. The difference is that we normally work on relatively healthy skin. I have never felt that what I do is ‘shallow’ or pandering to vanity. However, it is a wonderful endorsement that these treatments can now be applied to help someone like Katie Piper. It is even more satisfying to think that it will open up a whole new way of treating facial burns patients in the future.

So what does she actually look like? Well, normal. This is incredible given the extent of her injuries at the time. Her skin looks like skin, and not like tight, scar tissue typically seen on a recovered, skin-grafted burns patient.  Thank goodness for this ‘shallow’ industry….

Welcome to Dr Toni Phillips blog

Welcome to my first blog! So many people I meet both professionally & personally ask my advice that now seems the right time to start sharing my knowledge and expertise.

As a skilled cosmetic doctor, women (and men!) frequently quiz me on topics ranging from what skincare really works to what’s the best treatment for frown lines, and my answers are based on years of research and experience in helping people look their best. So I’ll be basing my blog on what I know people want to learn more about and answering the type of questions I get asked every day in my clinic.

I’ll be sorting my blogs into different categories so readers can find their around and get the information they need. Who doesn’t want to know about what to TRY in terms of treatments and products? There will be treatment reviews, with before and after pictures, information on how safe they are and what results you can really expect. I’ll be reporting back on industry NEWS – from the latest research, new treatments or a fabulous new product that will soon be on the shelves. I’ll be looking to REVIEW treatments as well – and either myself or my patients will report back on how it felt and the results seen. And finally, I’ll be inviting GUEST BLOGGERS to come and share their opinions on my website.

I plan to post a new blog fortnightly. Sign up to have them emailed straight to your inbox and please feel free to add your comments – I’m looking forward to hearing your opinions as well as sharing my own.

Dr Toni Phillips